if i was you i would get your brakes and rotors checked out
Take it to a shop and have them check for codes on the computer. You may have a sensor going bad, or maybe you do need a tune up. But it would be silly to do a tune up if what you really need is an oxygen sensor. Have it checked out and save yourself some money.
i own a repair shop,and a good tune up might do it,,but you need to have it done,,there’s more to a tune up,,than just changing the plugs ,and wires on an engine,,theres other things to consider also,,good luck hope this help,s.
These are the things I recommend
1. Change spark plugs (Tune up)
2. Change wires.(Tune up)
3. Change Air Filter
4. Change Fuel Filter
5. Use some fuel injection cleaner.
sounds like a faulty spark plug lead , i would recommend changing the plugs and leads. Take it to a mazda mechanic or dealership and get it checked for any fault codes as well just to make sure of any other problems.
First of all is the CHECK ENGINE light on? If so you need professional diagnostics to pull the codes. The check engine light is NOT NOT NOT a tune up light!!!!
A ***** in the air intake hose the goes into the engine from the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR can cause your symptoms,
spark plug wires that have burnt holes in them that cause spark to “leak” out to the metal engine parts and there again the check engine light can help a professional technician with an OBDII scan too to help you find your problem without cahnging a bunch of expensive and unnecessary parts and oh by the way I do not recommend just running to your local budget parts store to buy parts for your mazda they are prob one of the fussyiest cars I know and have learned that original equipment parts from MAZDA work so much better dont worry about the money you’ll be happier with the performance.
It could be your disc rotors need a grind or replacement depending on what the wear is.
A tune i dont beleive will have much to do with this problem.
Mind you on newer cars tune ups are quiet simple. There are no points like the older cars and a computer chip module controls idle etc.
It is good to listen to your mother, but add some diagnostics to the mix!
A good approach to start diagnostic is with a smog check. In San Jose, CA, these can be done for less than $20 on a dyno! An experienced technician or service writer can interpret the HC, CO % and NOX numbers.
My guess is that the emissions measurements on a 2000 626 with 50K miles will be quite good. This is a lot smarter and cheaper than throwing tune up, or other, parts at the problem. This is exactly what JR suggests in his post.
If it is not an emissions related problem then one of the car sensors/modules is bad. As others say, the next step is a computer scan to see if any codes are present. If one is, then a fault tree analysis is conducted to get to root cause.
But there are many hack old school mechanics who do not know how to diagnose electronic fuel injection computer controlled cars. Their answer to every problem is “tune up’.
Mandy is wrong about saying the brakes are a problem. The stutter happens both when slowing down and speeding up, which is not typical of a brake problem. If they were dragging, there would be plenty of heat and smoke and smell.
I have over a 50% best answer Yahoo rating, I know cars and what I am talking about.
You should have your car tuned up about every year and a half or so.
Cars are like people they need alot of attention, and with proper maintenance will last a very long time.
You have a cool car, so dont let it become neglected.
I’m not really sure if youre talking about when the car is slowing down, or when you are applying the brake. If you are applying the brake when experiencing these symptoms, then there is most likey a problem with your rotors, or brakes. In which case a tune-up would be irrelevant, because you’ll need some light front end work instead.
If the car is doing this without the application of the brake, then it is quite possible you may want to have your spark plug wires, and plugs replaced, which can be expensive sometimes.
Absolute worst case scenario, your transmission is acting up, but I doubt it. Unless, that stuttering is happening only upon acceleration.
My advice, spend the time and money to have it fully serviced and tuned up. Consider it an investment.